Kodaiji Temple, located in Higashiyama, Kyoto, is a Zen temple of the Kennin-ji school of Rinzai Buddhism.
The temple was built by Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, to pray for her husband’s soul. Inside the Otamaya (Mausoleum), you’ll find the “Kodaiji Maki-e,” a stunning example of decorative lacquerwork that reflects the elegance of the Momoyama period.
Surrounded by the lush nature of Higashiyama, the temple offers breathtaking views in every season. In spring, the grounds are filled with blooming cherry blossoms, while autumn brings vibrant red leaves, complemented by enchanting evening light displays.
This article will introduce the charm of Kodaiji Temple along with nearby sightseeing and dining spots.
What Makes Kodaiji Temple Special?
Kodaiji Temple is a Zen temple of the Kennin-ji school of Rinzai Buddhism, located in Higashiyama, Kyoto.
The temple’s main deity is Amida Nyorai (Amitabha Buddha), and it also serves as a mausoleum honoring Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his wife, Nene.
Unusually for the time, Hideyoshi and Nene were bound by love, not political arrangement. After Hideyoshi’s death, Nene built Kodaiji Temple to pray for his peaceful afterlife.
One of the temple’s highlights is the “Kodaiji Maki-e,” a type of lacquer art applied to architectural elements in the Otamaya (Mausoleum). This intricate design features glossy patterns and characters made with gold and silver powder, showcasing the luxurious culture of the Azuchi-Momoyama period.
In addition to its historical significance, Kodaiji is a popular spot for seasonal beauty, with tea ceremonies held a few times a year and breathtaking views that change throughout the seasons.
The History of Kodaiji Temple
Kodaiji Temple was established in 1598 by Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, to honor his memory after his passing.
Originally built in 1606 as a temple of the Soto school of Zen Buddhism, it later became part of the Kennin-ji school of Rinzai Zen in 1624. Some structures, including a tearoom and the main hall, were relocated from Hideyoshi’s final residence at Fushimi Castle, making Kodaiji a luxurious and grand temple when first built.
The Keshou Goten (Ornamented Palace) of Fushimi Castle was moved to the temple grounds to serve as Nene’s residence. This area is now Engetsuin, where Nene spent her final days after Hideyoshi’s death.
While the Buddha Hall and the main hall have not been rebuilt after multiple fires, several significant historical buildings remain. These include the Kasatei and Shiguretei teahouses designed by the renowned tea master Sen no Rikyu, and the Otamaya (Mausoleum), which enshrines Hideyoshi and Nene. Many of these structures are designated as Important Cultural Properties.
Kodaiji balances its historical significance with modern innovations. It was the first temple in Kyoto to introduce evening light displays, a tradition now embraced by many other temples in the city.
How to Access Kodaiji Temple
Kodaiji Temple, one of Kyoto’s popular sightseeing spots, is easy to reach using public transportation. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the nearest train station or a 7-minute walk from the closest bus stop. Since the temple is located on a hill, wearing comfortable walking shoes is recommended.
If you’re coming from Kiyomizu-dera Temple or Yasaka Shrine, consider taking the charming “Nene no Michi” (Nene’s Path). This picturesque lane is lined with traditional Kyoto shops, such as pickled vegetable stores and matcha cafes, and is a popular spot for photography.
Avoid driving if possible, as the area can get crowded.
By Train:
- From JR Kyoto Station: 20 minutes on foot.
- From Keihan Gion-Shijo Station: 10 minutes on foot.
- From Hankyu Kawaramachi Station: 15 minutes on foot.
By Bus:
- From Keihan Gion-Shijo Station: Take Kyoto City Bus No. 207 and get off at Higashiyama Yasui. It’s a 7-minute walk.
- From JR Kyoto Station: Take Kyoto City Bus No. 206 and get off at Higashiyama Yasui. It’s a 7-minute walk from there.
Visitor Information
- Address: 526 Shimokawaramachi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Japan
- Map: Google Map
- Phone Number: +81-75-561-9966
- Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Open until 10:00 PM during special evening events)
- Admission Fees: Adults ¥600, Junior High and High School Students ¥250, Groups of 30+ ¥500 per person. A combined ticket for Kodaiji and Entokuin is ¥900.
- Website: [Official Kodaiji Website]
Tips for Your Visit:
Kodaiji has a spacious temple ground with many highlights, including Entokuin, where Nene spent her later years. Be prepared for uphill paths and wear comfortable clothing. Photography is allowed in most areas without “No Photography” signs, but please be mindful of others when taking pictures.
The temple hosts seasonal events like cherry blossom and autumn foliage illuminations, as well as special activities during Tanabata and New Year’s Eve. These events tend to be crowded, so visiting on weekdays or around 5 PM is ideal to avoid the busiest times.
Discover Kodaiji Temple: A Shrine to Nene and Hideyoshi
Kodaiji Temple, surrounded by the natural beauty of Higashiyama, offers breathtaking scenery and a rich history. This temple is home to exquisite Momoyama-era art and tea houses designed by the legendary tea master Sen no Rikyu. Visitors can enjoy seasonal highlights such as cherry blossoms in spring, vibrant autumn leaves, and stunning evening light displays.
1. Explore the Beautiful Grounds and Cultural Treasures
Kodaiji Temple is located at the top of a staircase along Nene-no-Michi, a charming pathway. Before entering, visitors are greeted by a lush green path surrounded by trees. In autumn, this area transforms into a famous spot for viewing vibrant red and yellow leaves.
When I visited in early June, just before the rainy season, the path was lined with fresh green maple leaves, known as ao momiji. This translucent green foliage is a unique sight of early summer, offering a tranquil and refreshing atmosphere.
As you proceed through the temple grounds, you’ll encounter Kaizando Hall, one of Kodaiji’s iconic structures. Built in 1605, this historic building is designated as an Important Cultural Property. Inside, you’ll find a statue of Sanko Shoeki, a Zen monk who played a key role in the temple’s history.
Surrounding Kaizando Hall is the Hodo Garden, designed by the renowned landscape artist Kobori Enshu. The garden features two ponds, Garyu-ike and Engetsu-ike, arranged in perfect harmony. This garden is recognized as a National Scenic Spot and is a favorite among visitors for its stunning views and photo opportunities.
Kodaiji is also home to the Hashintei Dry Landscape Garden, made up of rocks and raked sand patterns. During nighttime light-up events, the garden transforms with mesmerizing projection mapping displays. In spring, the garden is surrounded by cherry blossoms, creating a vivid and unforgettable scene.
As you continue through the grounds, you’ll come across the Garyuro Corridor, a covered walkway that connects Kaizando Hall to the mausoleum (Reisho). This long corridor is named for its resemblance to the back of a dragon. While visitors cannot walk across it, its striking design and autumn scenery make it a favorite photo spot. In fall, the corridor is beautifully framed by red and gold leaves, enhancing its dramatic appearance.
At the heart of Kodaiji is the Reisho, the mausoleum dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his wife, Nene. Located at the top of a gentle slope, this structure is adorned with intricate Kodaiji Maki-e, lacquerwork featuring dazzling gold and silver designs. The craftsmanship reflects the sophisticated art of the Momoyama period.
Inside the mausoleum, you’ll find wooden statues of Hideyoshi and Nene, enshrined to honor their legacy. As an Important Cultural Property, the Reisho is one of the temple’s most significant sites and well worth the climb.
From its historical treasures to its stunning seasonal beauty, Kodaiji Temple offers a unique glimpse into Kyoto’s rich culture and the legacy of one of Japan’s most celebrated couples. Don’t miss the chance to explore this unforgettable destination!
2. Enjoy the Beauty of Each Season at Kodaiji Temple
Kodaiji Temple, nestled in the natural beauty of Higashiyama, offers breathtaking views that change with the seasons. Let’s explore the highlights of each time of year.
In spring, the temple’s hojo (main hall) garden becomes a favorite spot for visitors, thanks to its elegant weeping cherry trees. With around 50 cherry trees blooming across the grounds, the combination of the garden and cherry blossoms creates a picture-perfect scene.
During the day, the soft pink blossoms brighten the landscape under the clear sky. At night, a special illumination transforms the garden, bathing the weeping cherry trees in a dreamy, magical light.
In early summer, Kodaiji is covered in vibrant greenery, particularly its fresh green maple leaves, known as ao momiji. These can be seen throughout the temple grounds, creating a lively and refreshing atmosphere.
A stroll around Garyu-ike (the “Lying Dragon Pond”), located near the Kaizando Hall, is especially relaxing in this season. The pond reflects the surrounding greenery, offering a serene escape from the summer heat.
Autumn is the most popular time to visit Kodaiji Temple. The grounds come alive with the brilliant reds and oranges of autumn foliage, particularly in the gardens designed by Kobori Enshu.
The vibrant leaves are set against the backdrop of the Higashiyama mountains, known as the “Thirty-Six Peaks.” The combination of colorful foliage and majestic mountains creates a truly unforgettable experience. On sunny days, the red leaves are mirrored on the surface of the temple’s ponds, adding another layer of beauty to the scene.
Kodaiji offers seasonal night illuminations throughout the year, enhancing the charm of its natural beauty. In spring and autumn, the lights highlight the cherry blossoms and fall foliage, creating an enchanting atmosphere.
During special events like Tanabata (the Star Festival) or New Year’s Eve, the temple grounds are also illuminated. Be sure to check the temple’s official website for details on upcoming light shows.
One particularly unique event featured projection mapping in the hojo garden’s Hashin-tei. Using the patterns of the Zen garden, the mapping created a modern yet distinctly Kyoto-style display, blending tradition and innovation.
No matter the season, Kodaiji Temple offers a stunning and unforgettable experience. Plan your visit to enjoy the beauty of this historic site year-round!
3. Entoku-in Temple: The Final Home of Nene
Just a 2-minute walk from Kodaiji Temple, Entoku-in is where Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, spent her final 19 years, starting at the age of 58. This historic spot holds great significance in Kyoto’s cultural heritage.
Although a separate admission fee is required, combo tickets with Kodaiji are available, making it a convenient option if you plan to visit both sites.
As you step through the large wooden karamon gate, your view opens to a stunning garden that exudes tranquility and beauty.
The South Garden, designed under the supervision of master gardener Yasuo Kitayama, reflects a thoughtful dedication to Nene. Along the path leading to the garden, flowers bloom throughout the year, a nod to Nene’s love for blossoms and seasonal beauty.
Visitors can sit on the wooden veranda and enjoy a peaceful moment while admiring the garden’s serene atmosphere—a perfect way to unwind and connect with the scenery.
Inside the hojo (main hall), you’ll find impressive fusuma (sliding door) paintings and wall art. One standout piece is the late work of artist Ryo Akamatsu, titled White Dragon. This powerful image of a dragon soaring through turbulent waves is said to symbolize Hideyoshi’s rise from humble beginnings to unify Japan.
The bond between Hideyoshi and Nene, often described as a loving and supportive relationship, can also be felt through these paintings. Another highlight is Winter, a work by Hasegawa Tohaku, designated as an Important Cultural Property.
The North Garden, originally part of the front yard of Nene’s residence in Fushimi Castle, has been preserved in its near-original form. This garden, a national scenic spot, combines elements of both a stroll garden with a pond and a dry landscape garden.
Toward the back of the garden, large clusters of rocks create a bold and dynamic composition, reflecting the grandeur and strength of the Momoyama period. Take your time to appreciate the intricate design and craftsmanship.
Adjacent to the North Garden is a shrine dedicated to the Sanmen Daikokuten, a rare deity that combines Daikokuten, Bishamonten, and Benzaiten. According to legend, Hideyoshi’s fortunes soared after praying here as a young man. Visitors often come to this power spot to seek blessings for success and prosperity.
Visitor Information for Entoku-in
- Address: 530 Shimokawaramachi, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map: Google Map
- Access: 6-minute walk from “Higashiyama Yasui” bus stop (Kyoto City Bus 206)
- Phone: 075-525-0101
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry at 5:30 PM)
- Admission Fees: Adults ¥500, Students (junior high/high school) ¥200, Groups of 30+ ¥400
- Website: Official Entoku-in Website
Recommended Attractions Around Kodaiji Temple
The area around Kodaiji Temple is filled with fascinating spots, including Kennin-ji, the head temple of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, and Maruyama Park, a popular place for both locals and tourists to relax.
Take a stroll to these nearby attractions and enjoy exploring the charming streets of Kyoto.
1. Maruyama Park: A Scenic Park with a Japanese Garden
Located just a 5-minute walk from Kodaiji Temple and the Gion bus stop (served by Kyoto City Bus routes 100 and 206), Maruyama Park is a spacious and lush green area. As Kyoto’s oldest park, it offers visitors the chance to enjoy beautiful scenery throughout the year.
The Japanese garden within the park is a designated National Scenic Spot, designed during the Taisho period by the famous gardener Jihei Ogawa VII. The stroll garden features a tranquil pond surrounded by seasonal flowers and trees.
Beyond the pond, you can take in the view of the Higashiyama mountains, which provide a stunning natural backdrop on sunny days.
A small stream flows alongside a gentle slope within the garden, creating a peaceful atmosphere. Following the path up the slope, you can turn left to reach Chion-in Temple and Shoren-in Temple, or turn right to head towards Nene’s Path and Kodaiji Temple.
Maruyama Park Visitor Information
- Address: Maruyama-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map: Google Map
- Access:
- From JR Kyoto Station: Take Kyoto City Bus routes 100 or 206, get off at “Gion,” and walk 5 minutes.
- From Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line): 7-minute walk.
- From Higashiyama Station (Subway Tozai Line): 10-minute walk.
- Phone: 075-561-1350
- Hours: Open year-round, free admission
- Website: Official Maruyama Park Website
Yasaka Shrine: A Power Spot Dedicated to Susanoo-no-Mikoto
Located just steps from the “Gion” bus stop (served by Kyoto City Bus routes 100 and 206), Yasaka Shrine is one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto and a must-visit spot in the Higashiyama area.
As you approach Yasaka Shrine, you’ll be greeted by the large, vermilion-painted West Gate (Nishi Romon). This striking structure is a symbol of the Higashiyama area and a popular photo spot. The gate is also designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
At the heart of the shrine grounds is the Main Hall (Honden), where Susanoo-no-Mikoto, a deity from Japanese mythology, is enshrined. The current Main Hall, rebuilt by Tokugawa Ietsuna, the 4th Shogun of the Tokugawa family, is also an Important Cultural Property.
Don’t miss the unique carvings at the top of the pillars near the hall’s eastern side, called Ryuboe (“Dragon’s Roar”). If you clap your hands loudly here, the echo sounds like a dragon roaring!
Within Yasaka Shrine’s grounds, you’ll find several smaller sub-shrines. One of the most popular is the Utsukushigozensha, dedicated to three beautiful goddesses. This shrine is known as a power spot for beauty and wealth.
Next to the shrine is a natural spring called Biyosui (“Beauty Water”), believed to bless visitors with beauty. Be sure to stop by and experience this unique feature!
Yasaka Shrine Visitor Information
- Address: 625 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map: Google Map
- Access:
- From JR Kyoto Station: Take Kyoto City Bus routes 100 or 206 to “Gion” bus stop (1-minute walk).
- From Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line): 5-minute walk.
- Phone: 075-561-6155
- Hours: Open year-round, free admission
- Website: Official Yasaka Shrine Website
Kennin-ji Temple: A Zen Sanctuary with National Treasures and the Famous Twin Dragons
Just a 5-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line) and about 10 minutes on foot from Kodaiji Temple, Kennin-ji is a historic Zen temple in Kyoto. As the head temple of the Kennin-ji branch of the Rinzai sect, it boasts a vast and tranquil site that feels far removed from the bustling city.
One of the highlights of Kennin-ji is the Hatto Hall, which serves as both a lecture hall and a Buddha hall. The ceiling of this hall is adorned with a magnificent painting of Twin Dragons, created to commemorate the temple’s 800th anniversary. The artwork is a powerful representation of protection and strength, and its sheer scale is breathtaking.
Kennin-ji is also famous for the “Wind God and Thunder God Screens” (Fujin Raijin-zu), painted by Tawaraya Sotatsu. This stunning artwork, designated as a National Treasure, depicts the dynamic gods dashing through a golden sky.
While the original screens are housed at the Kyoto National Museum, visitors to Kennin-ji can see faithful reproductions displayed in the Shoin (study room) of the temple’s main hall. These reproductions are so detailed that they capture the beauty of the originals, and photography is allowed (as long as you don’t use a tripod).
Visitor Information for Kennin-ji
- Address: Komatsu-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map: Google Map
- Access:
- From Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line): 5-minute walk
- From JR Kyoto Station: Take Kyoto City Bus to “Gion” bus stop, then 5-minute walk
- Phone: 075-561-6363
- Hours:
- March 1 – October 31: 10:00 AM – 4:30 PM
- November 1 – February 28: 10:00 AM – 4:30 PM
- Admission Fee:
- Adults: 500 yen
- Junior/Senior High School Students: 300 yen
- Elementary School Students: 200 yen
- Website: Kennin-ji Official Website
Recommended Food Spots Around Kodaiji Temple
The area around Kodaiji Temple is not only rich in sightseeing attractions but also packed with great restaurants. After exploring, why not treat yourself to some delicious local cuisine?
A Long-Established Favorite Since 1930! Try the Famous Oyako-don at “Gion Shimokawara Hisago”
Located just a 3-minute walk from Kodaiji Temple and a 13-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line), Gion Shimokawara Hisago is a long-standing restaurant that has been serving its specialties since 1930.
The highlight of the menu is their signature Oyako-don (chicken and egg rice bowl). You can also enjoy seasonal dishes like Seiro Soba and Nishin Soba (buckwheat noodles with herring).
The Oyako-don (1,010 yen, tax included) is a comforting bowl of rice topped with flavorful chicken and a rich, aromatic dashi-based egg mixture. For those who enjoy a bit of spice, a sprinkle of sansho pepper adds a refreshing kick to the dish.
Experience the authentic taste of a restaurant with decades of history!
Gion Shimokawara Hisago Restaurant Details
- Address: 484 Shimogawara-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map:Google Maps
- Access:
- From Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line): 13-minute walk
- From Higashiyama Yasui Bus Stop (Kyoto City Bus, Route 206): 3-minute walk
- Phone: 075-561-2109
- Closed: Mondays and Fridays
- Hours: 11:30 AM – 7:00 PM (Last Order: 6:30 PM)
- Price Range:Lunch/Dinner: 1,000 – 1,999 yen
- Smoking Policy: Completely non-smoking
Established in 1978! Traditional Matcha Café “Saryo Tsujiri”
Just a 5-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line), Saryo Tsujiri is the flagship café of a historic matcha shop founded in 1978.
The café was created with the idea of “not just drinking matcha, but enjoying it in desserts.” Here, you can savor delightful parfaits and sweets made with high-quality matcha.
The Tsujiri Parfait (1,178 yen, tax included) is an original creation using premium Uji matcha. Layers of matcha cream, roasted tea jelly, anko (sweet red bean paste), and other ingredients come together to create a beautifully balanced dessert.
With its refreshing tea aroma and mild sweetness, this parfait is perfect for anyone, even those who prefer less sugary treats.
Saryo Tsujiri Café Details
- Address: 573-3 Gion Tsujiri Main Store 2F/3F, Shijo-dori, Gion-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto
- Map: Google Maps
- Access: 5-minute walk from Gion-Shijo Station (Keihan Line)
- Phone: 075-561-2257
- Closed: Open year-round
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM
- Price Range: 1,000 – 1,999 yen (both lunch and dinner)
- Smoking Policy: Completely non-smoking
- Official Website: Saryo Tsujiri Gion Main Store
Here’s a guide to the highlights of Kodaiji Temple from the perspective of someone who has visited in person.
Kodaiji offers plenty to see, from its rich natural surroundings showcasing seasonal beauty to its historic architecture and treasured artifacts.
Be sure to explore nearby attractions and enjoy some delicious local food, all within walking distance!
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