Discover the Best Spots in Kyoto’s Pontocho!

Enjoy Kyoto-style Townhouses, Riverside Dining, and Delicious Obanzai Meals

Pontocho is a narrow alley running along the Kamo River, lined with traditional Kyoto townhouses. Unlike the bustling areas of Gion and Kawaramachi nearby, Pontocho offers a quieter, more atmospheric Kyoto experience.

This charming street is home to a variety of restaurants serving Kyoto cuisine, including obanzai (traditional home-style dishes). In summer, you can enjoy a special dining experience on kawadoko, riverside platforms overlooking the Kamo River.

In this article, we’ll introduce the history and name origin of Pontocho, as well as must-visit sightseeing spots. We’ve also carefully selected the best restaurants for lunch and dinner, so be sure to use this guide for your next trip to Kyoto!

What is Pontocho?

Pontocho (pronounced Ponto-cho) is a narrow alley in Kyoto that runs along the Kamo River, connecting Sanjo Street and Shijo Street. It is a popular tourist destination year-round, known for its traditional atmosphere and historic charm. In this article, we’ll explore the history and origins of its name.

A Historic Geisha District

Nestled between Kyoto’s bustling downtown areas of Kawaramachi and Gion, Pontocho is a narrow street just about 2 meters wide and stretches 550 meters. Along this charming alley, you’ll find rows of traditional Kyoto townhouses with beautiful red latticework façades, many of which are now restaurants and teahouses.

Despite being just a step away from the lively city center, Pontocho feels like a journey back in time. Visitors can enjoy Kyoto’s historic townscape while dining on a variety of traditional dishes, such as obanzai (Kyoto-style home cooking) and kaiseki (multi-course Japanese cuisine). This unique charm attracts both domestic and international tourists throughout the year.

Originally, Pontocho was a sandbank in the Kamo River. However, in 1670, a riverbank construction project transformed it into a small town. Around 40 years later, inns and teahouses began to open, and by the late Edo period, Pontocho flourished as a hanamachi (geisha district) where guests could enjoy performances by geiko and maiko.

Even today, Pontocho is considered one of Kyoto’s five major geisha districts, and if you’re lucky, you may spot a maiko or geiko on their way to an evening engagement.

There are several theories about the origin of the name Pontocho. One theory suggests that it comes from the Portuguese words ponto (point) or ponte (bridge). This mix of foreign influence and Kyoto’s deep-rooted traditions makes Pontocho even more fascinating!

Enjoy Kyoto’s Famous Kawadoko Dining in Summer

In summer, kawadoko (also called kawayuka or yuka) is a well-known tradition in Pontocho.

Kawadoko refers to seasonal riverside dining platforms set up along the riverbanks, offering a refreshing way to enjoy meals outdoors. These platforms are installed only during the warmer months to provide a cool and relaxing atmosphere, which is why they are also called “Noryo-yuka” (noryo means “cooling off”). In Kyoto, this has been a beloved summer tradition for centuries.

The Kamogawa Kawadoko, which includes restaurants in Pontocho, stretches from Nijo Street to Gojo Street, with nearly 100 establishments offering riverside dining. Among Kyoto’s famous kawadoko areas—such as Kibune and Takao—Pontocho’s is said to be the oldest, dating back to the Momoyama period (late 16th century).

The exact operating season varies by year and restaurant, but it generally runs from early May to late October. Some restaurants also offer lunch-time kawadoko, which is a more affordable way to experience this unique Kyoto tradition compared to evening dining.

Must-Visit Spots in Pontocho

Pontocho is best known for its rows of traditional machiya (Kyoto-style townhouses) that have been converted into restaurants and teahouses. However, this charming alley is also home to historic landmarks and sightseeing spots worth exploring. Here, we’ll introduce two key places to visit: Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater and Pontocho Park.

Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater

As you enter Pontocho from Sanjo Street and walk south, you’ll soon spot Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater on your left. This historic venue is where events organized by the Pontocho Kabukai (Pontocho Geisha Association) are held, including the famous Kamogawa Odori dance performances by maiko and geiko.

“Odori” refers to traditional dance performances by maiko and geiko. Each of Kyoto’s five geisha districts (Gokagai) has its own signature odori, which are performed annually in spring (from late March to May) as a cultural event.

Kamogawa Odori, which began in 1872, is one of the most renowned odori performances and has the most showings among Kyoto’s five geisha districts. Its elaborate costumes, stunning stage design, and graceful dance have even captivated international celebrities like Charlie Chaplin in the past.

At the event, visitors can also enjoy matcha tea served by a geiko before the performance.

Pontocho Kaburenjo is also notable for its architectural beauty. Completed in 1927, the building was designed by a renowned architect who also worked on Osaka Shochikuza Theater. It is considered an example of modern architecture with a touch of Eastern aesthetics.

One fascinating detail is the decorative roof tile (onigawara) featuring a bugaku mask, which symbolizes the performing arts. This unique design is meant to protect the building and celebrate its connection to traditional dance.

Aside from hosting Kamogawa Odori, the theater is also used for concerts, exhibitions, and cultural events throughout the year.

Pontocho Park

Amid the tightly packed machiya townhouses of Pontocho, you’ll find a small hidden gem—Pontocho Park.

Originally a children’s playground, the park was redesigned in 2010 into a Kyoto-style garden. It features a small landscaped hill, a mini Japanese garden, and a weeping cherry tree that sways gently in the spring breeze, adding to the elegant charm of this historic geisha district.

Located midway between Sanjo Street and Shijo Street, it’s a great spot to take a short break while strolling through Pontocho. You might even spot some friendly neighborhood cats relaxing in the park!

From the small hill, you can enjoy a clear view of the Kamo River and the opposite bank. If you visit outside the summer months when the kawadoko riverside dining is not in season, this park offers a peaceful place to admire the scenic beauty of the Kamo River.

Recommended Lunch Spots in Pontocho

Pontocho is lined with a variety of restaurants serving Kyoto cuisine, kaiseki (traditional multi-course meals), and obanzai (Kyoto-style home-cooked dishes). While dining in a kawadoko (riverside dining area) or a historic machiya townhouse is a dream for many, some may feel that traditional restaurants in the area are a bit formal or expensive.

If you’re looking for a more casual dining experience, lunchtime is a great option, as many restaurants offer more affordable menus compared to dinner. Here, we introduce one of the best spots for lunch in Pontocho.

Creative Kyoto Cuisine – Ushinohone

Ushinohone Main Branch is a highly popular restaurant that can be difficult to book. Established over 35 years ago, it specializes in Kyoto-style cuisine and obanzai, featuring carefully selected Kyoto ingredients and local vegetables, along with delicious beef dishes.

The restaurant is located in a two-story renovated traditional townhouse:

• The first floor offers tatami seating, perfect for those who want to enjoy a relaxed and cozy atmosphere.
• The second floor has table seating and private rooms, where you can enjoy your meal while overlooking the Kamo River.

In summer, the restaurant offers kawadoko seating on a traditional tatami-floored terrace. They also serve lunch on the kawadoko, making it a great option for those who want to experience Kyoto’s unique riverside dining during the day.

Menu & Pricing

• Dinner courses start at ¥7,000 (with an additional ¥500 charge for kawadoko seating).
• Lunch courses offer a more affordable option. The “Ushinohone Lunch Course” includes slow-cooked wagyu beef and the restaurant’s signature beef stew, available for ¥4,800 (tax included).

If you prefer table seating, you might also consider Sofudo Ushinohone, a nearby sister restaurant. Like the main branch, it offers kawadoko dining in both summer lunch and dinner hours.

A must-try at both locations is their signature “Ushinohone-style Beef Stew”, a rich and flavorful dish made with a special broth that has been perfected since the restaurant’s founding.

Other recommended dishes include:

• Crispy tempura fried in premium sesame oil
• Fresh seasonal seafood
• Silky tofu made from high-quality domestic soybeans

They also offer a wide selection of sake from across Japan, as well as original cocktails.

Kaiseki & Unagi Cuisine – Izumoya

Located at the southern end of Pontocho, Izumoya is a five-story restaurant that has been serving guests since the Taisho era (1912–1926). It is a popular spot where you can enjoy both authentic Kyoto-style kaiseki cuisine and traditional unagi (grilled eel).

The restaurant’s specialty is kabayaki (grilled eel), prepared with a secret sauce that has been passed down since its founding. This flavorful dish is priced at ¥2,750 (tax included).

Other menu options include:

• Hitsumabushi (chopped grilled eel over rice)
• Shabu-shabu and sukiyaki
• Seasonal hot pots: Hamo (pike conger) shabu-shabu in summer, fugu (pufferfish) hot pot in winter

If you’re visiting for lunch, consider these popular choices:

• “Hana Izumo (Ume)” Kaiseki Set – A standard kaiseki meal: ¥2,970 (tax included)
• “Hyotan Bento” – A beautifully arranged three-tiered bento box: ¥3,190 (tax included)
• “Kids’ Bento” (for children under 12) – A great option for families: ¥880 (tax included)

Izumoya offers kawadoko dining for both lunch and dinner, with 100 seats available. This makes it easier to secure a reservation, even on busy weekends.

Even if you visit outside of the kawadoko season, you can still enjoy stunning views of the Kamo River through the restaurant’s large glass windows.

Ukiya Pontocho Main Store

Located at the northern end of Pontocho, Ukiya is a long-established soba restaurant that has been serving handmade soba noodles since 1929.

In the past, soba was not as popular in Kyoto as it was in Tokyo, with udon being the preferred noodle dish. However, about 50 years after Ukiya was founded, the third-generation owner trained in Tokyo and worked hard to introduce handmade soba culture to Kyoto.

For lunch, Ukiya offers a variety of soba dishes, including:

• Seiro soba (cold soba served with dipping sauce)
• Juwari soba (100% buckwheat noodles)
• Nihachi soba (80% buckwheat, 20% wheat noodles)
• Tempura soba

They also serve rice bowl dishes like tendon (tempura rice bowl), available as a la carte or in set meals.

Signature Dishes

• Ayu Soba (¥1,780, tax included) – Features sweet-simmered ayu (Japanese sweetfish) from Lake Biwa and Kyoto yuba (tofu skin).
• Cold Fresh Yuba Soba (¥1,780, tax included) – Made with fresh yuba from Yubaya, a long-established shop in Kyoto’s Gojo area, garnished with ho-shiso (perilla flowers).

Ukiya also offers creative soba dishes, curry udon, and seasonal specialties, making it a place you’ll want to visit again and again to try different flavors.

Enjoy Kyoto-style soba, made with carefully selected buckwheat flour, high-quality ingredients, and fragrant dashi broth.

Recommended Dinner Spots in Pontocho

At night, Pontocho takes on a different charm, offering a more sophisticated atmosphere where you can enjoy Kyoto’s local sake and delicious dinner options. After your meal, take a leisurely stroll along the beautifully lit stone-paved alleys for a truly Kyoto-like experience.

From long-established restaurants to casual and budget-friendly spots, here are some great places for dinner in Pontocho.

Kokoraya

Kokoraya is a popular obanzai restaurant that specializes in Kyoto-style home-cooked dishes made with fresh local ingredients. It is one of the more affordable options in Pontocho, making it a hot spot on social media and YouTube. When I visited, there was already a waiting line outside.

Unlike most restaurants, Kokoraya’s entrance is not on the main Pontocho street. Instead, you’ll find it down a small side alley, where a sign with the restaurant’s name will guide you inside.

The name “Kokoraya” comes from the Kyoto dialect word “kokorahen,” meaning “this neighborhood.” Just as its name suggests, the restaurant has a warm, homey feel, like visiting a countryside house or a friendly neighbor’s home.

Inside, you’ll find a renovated two-story Kyoto machiya (traditional townhouse) with a modern Japanese design. The staff, dressed in kappogi (traditional Japanese aprons), welcome you warmly, adding to the cozy atmosphere.

Kokoraya offers a wide variety of dishes, including appetizers, Kyoto beef, seasonal vegetables, and fresh seafood. If you’re unsure what to order, try selecting from the “Tonight’s Recommendations” menu.

Recommended Obanzai Dishes (Each ¥790, tax included)

• Grilled Manganji Peppers (a mild Kyoto chili pepper)
• Daikon Radish & Kyoto-Fried Tofu Simmered in Dashi
• Fresh Yuba Sashimi

(Note: “Taitan” refers to Kansai-style simmered dishes cooked in a light broth.)

Other Must-Try Dishes

• Assorted Fresh Sashimi (Market Price)
• Kyoto Dashi-Maki Tamago (Rolled Omelet) – ¥990
• Kokora-Yaki (Grilled Kyoto Tofu & Grated Yam with Butter) – ¥1,390–¥1,590

Kokoraya is the perfect place to enjoy authentic Kyoto flavors in a cozy and welcoming setting.

Fujita

If you’re looking for a special dinner experience in Pontocho, Fujita is an excellent choice. This renowned kaiseki restaurant is located right in front of the Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater and serves exquisite Japanese cuisine with carefully selected ingredients.

At the heart of Fujita’s dishes is dashi (Japanese soup stock). Made by slowly simmering kombu (kelp) and katsuobushi (bonito flakes), this flavorful broth enhances the taste of every kaiseki dish.

Using fresh seafood sourced from the market every morning, locally brewed Kyoto sake, and premium seasonal ingredients, Fujita is loved by both locals and visitors. It’s a perfect choice not only for a special dinner but also for business meetings, celebrations, and private gatherings.

The restaurant spans three floors, each offering a different dining experience:

• 1st Floor: Counter seats where you can watch the chefs prepare each dish in front of you.
• 2nd Floor: Table seating, horigotatsu (sunken floor seating), and private dining rooms for a more intimate experience.
• 3rd Floor: A banquet hall for up to 25 guests, featuring a view of the decorative rooftop tiles of the Kaburenjo Theater.

Fujita offers three kaiseki dinner courses:

• Hana (Flower) – ¥12,000
• Tsuki (Moon) – ¥15,000
• Chiso (Feast) – ¥20,000

The Tsuki Course features Kyoto Wagyu steak as the main dish, along with hamo (pike conger) and matsutake mushroom dobin-mushi (steamed in a teapot) and a five-piece sashimi platter.

For a truly authentic Kyoto kaiseki experience, Fujita is a must-visit dining destination.

Sushitetsu

Located at the northern end of Pontocho, Sushitetsu is a popular sushi restaurant that often has a waiting line.

The reason? It offers authentic sushi at an incredibly affordable price, starting at just ¥110 per piece (¥220 per plate, tax included)!

Despite its budget-friendly pricing, Sushitetsu serves high-quality sushi made with fresh seafood sourced from Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, prepared right in front of you by skilled sushi chefs. With such great value for money, waiting for an hour is definitely worth it.

In addition to traditional nigiri sushi, Sushitetsu offers unique “reverse-imported” rolls like the California Roll and Boston Roll (both ¥550). The menu also includes sashimi, tempura, grilled fish, and other Japanese dishes.

For group dining, the 8-course meal with all-you-can-drink is highly recommended at ¥6,000 per person.

The restaurant has table seating and semi-private rooms, but with 18 counter seats, it’s also welcoming for solo diners. Watching the chefs skillfully prepare sushi right in front of you adds to the experience.

Since weekends and peak seasons can get very busy, a reservation is recommended (available for groups of four or more).

Lunch service is available on weekends only.

Tucked away just off Kyoto’s bustling downtown streets, Pontocho is a narrow alley lined with traditional wooden townhouses, making you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time to the Edo period or the late samurai era.

With its rich history as a geisha district, Pontocho’s charming streets fascinate both Japanese and international visitors. The area is also famous for seasonal Kyoto traditions, such as Kamogawa Odori (a traditional dance performance in spring) and Kamogawa Noryo-yuka (riverside dining in summer).

While this article focuses on Kyoto-style cuisine and traditional Japanese dishes, Pontocho also offers French, Italian, and Chinese restaurants, ensuring that every visit brings a new experience.

When visiting Kyoto, be sure to explore Pontocho and enjoy an unforgettable dining experience!